Cholistani culture is built around herding and water. Most families in the desert live a semi-nomadic life, moving their camels, cattle, sheep and goats between grazing land and the tobas, the man-made ponds that store the little rain the desert gets. Around 110,000 people in Cholistan depend on livestock for their living, and the crafts, dress and dwellings you see on a visit all grow out of that pastoral way of life. This guide covers how that life works, what's made and worn, and how to visit desert communities without being intrusive.
| At a glance | |
|---|---|
| Way of life | Semi-nomadic herding, moving with the seasons between grazing land and tobas |
| Tobas | Man-made rainwater ponds, the main source of drinking water for people and livestock |
| Livestock | Camels, cattle, sheep and goats; roughly 2.2 million head across the desert |
| Crafts | Rilli and gindi quilting, embroidery, khussa shoes, camel-wool blankets and rugs |
| Dress | Bright, mirror-worked women's tunics; distinctive local turbans for men |
| Best way to see it | An organised desert safari or a stop at a village en route to Derawar Fort |
Life around the tobas
Cholistan gets very little rain, typically only 100 to 250 mm a year, and almost nothing in the way of rivers or wells fit for regular use. What sustains both people and animals are tobas: dug-out ponds built to catch and hold rainwater runoff on the desert's flat clay ground. Settlements cluster around them, small and scattered rather than forming towns, because a toba can only support so many households and their herds.
Herding here follows a split pattern. Young animals stay in pens near the toba, while adult stock is taken further out to graze under a herder's watch, sometimes for days at a time. When a toba runs low, families move on to another, which is what keeps Cholistani life semi-nomadic rather than settled, even where some households now have a fixed home base.
Desert dwellings
Traditional Cholistani houses are built from what the desert provides: mud walls raised in layers, roofed with wood and reed and plastered over, often decorated inside with embroidered hangings and locally made objects. They're simple structures but built with real attention to comfort in the heat, put up through communal effort rather than individual labour. On a drive through the desert, particularly around the smaller forts and settlements beyond Derawar, these are still the most common style of home.
Crafts of the desert
Cholistan's handicrafts grow directly from what herding provides: wool, leather and, for women sheltering indoors through the hottest hours, time for detailed needlework.
- Rilli and gindi quilts. Patchwork quilts pieced together in bold geometric patterns, one of the best-known Cholistani textile crafts and a common item sold in Bahawalpur's markets.
- Embroidery and mirror work. Used on women's tunics, hangings and bags, often in bright colour combinations with small inlaid pieces of glass or metal.
- Khussa. Traditional leather shoes, and Cholistani khussa in particular are noted for the quality and richness of their embroidered, sometimes gold-threaded, designs.
- Camel-wool blankets and rugs. Spun and woven from camel and goat wool into durable, fade-resistant textiles suited to the desert climate.
- Camel-leather and camel-skin craft. Smaller items such as lampshades and decorative pieces made from camel hide, a craft particular to the Cholistan and Multan area.
What people wear
Cholistani women traditionally wear bright, colourful choli tops and long tunics set with small pieces of mirror and metal, along with jewellery that was historically heavy silver, elbow-length bangles included, though cheaper metals are common today. Men are recognisable by their turbans, tied in a distinctive local style and often in bold colours. Both reflect a visual culture built for a landscape with very little natural colour of its own.
Visiting and photographing desert communities respectfully
Tourism infrastructure in Cholistan is limited, and most visitors see desert life in passing, on the drive to Derawar Fort or as part of an organised safari, rather than staying with a family. A few points make that contact better for everyone:
- Ask before photographing people, especially women, rather than photographing a settlement or a family from the car or at a distance without asking. A smile and a gesture towards the camera is usually enough to get a clear yes or no.
- Don't treat a village as a photo backdrop. These are people's homes and working lives, not a set piece, and a quick conversation, even through a guide, goes further than an unasked-for photo.
- Buy crafts directly where you can, at a market stall or from a maker rather than only from a shop that may or may not pass the money on.
- Respect that this is subsistence life, not a display. Herding in Cholistan is genuinely hard work dependent on unreliable rain, not a performance kept up for visitors.
Our guide to Cholistan desert safaris covers how organised trips are arranged, and our guide to camping in Cholistan has more on spending a night in the desert itself.
Frequently asked questions
What is a toba in Cholistan?
A man-made rainwater pond dug into the desert's clay ground, used as the main source of drinking water for both people and livestock. Settlements cluster around them.
What crafts is Cholistan known for?
Rilli and gindi patchwork quilts, mirror-worked embroidery, camel-wool blankets and rugs, and finely embroidered khussa shoes are the best-known Cholistani crafts.
Do Cholistani people still live a nomadic lifestyle?
Many families are semi-nomadic, moving between grazing land and water sources with the seasons, though some now keep a fixed home base while herders take the livestock further afield.
Is it okay to photograph people in Cholistan villages?
Ask first, especially before photographing women. A quick, friendly request is normal and appreciated; photographing people or homes without asking is not.
How can I see Cholistani desert culture as a visitor?
The most practical way is an organised desert safari from Bahawalpur, or a stop at a settlement on the drive to Derawar Fort, rather than expecting a formal cultural tour.
