Staying warm in the northern areas in winter comes down to three things: layering properly, choosing accommodation that actually heats its rooms, and knowing the early signs of hypothermia so nobody pushes through them. Night-time temperatures across Hunza, Skardu and the high valleys regularly fall well below freezing from December to February, and cold is a real risk here, not just a discomfort.
Layering that actually works
The basic system is three layers, and it matters more than any single expensive item:
- A base layer against the skin that wicks moisture, ideally not cotton, which stays wet and cold once you sweat in it.
- An insulating mid layer, such as fleece or a down or synthetic jacket, to trap warm air.
- A windproof and waterproof outer layer, because wind chill does more damage than still cold air of the same temperature, and mountain winters are windy.
Add a warm hat, gloves and thick socks, since heat loss through the head and extremities is disproportionate to their size. Keep a spare set of gloves and socks dry in your bag; wet hands and feet get cold fastest and warm up slowest.
Hotel heating: what to expect and what to ask
Heating quality varies enormously by hotel tier and by season. A handful of established mid-range and higher-end hotels in Karimabad, Skardu and similar towns run through winter with proper central heating or reliable gas heaters. Many smaller guesthouses close for the winter season altogether, particularly further up the valleys, and those that stay open often rely on a bukhari, a wood or charcoal-fired room stove, rather than central heating.
Before booking a winter stay, ask directly:
- Is the hotel open through winter, or does it close for part of the season?
- What kind of heating is in the room, and is it available all night or switched off after a certain hour?
- Is hot water available on demand, or only at set times?
A bukhari heats a room well but needs the fire kept going, and it needs ventilation. Never block a room's air vents to keep heat in, and never bring a gas heater or a barbecue-style fire into a closed room, because unventilated combustion heating is a genuine carbon monoxide risk in small, sealed guesthouse rooms. If a room smells of gas or fumes, open a window and ask to be moved.
Sleeping warm
- Use every blanket offered, and ask for extra if the room feels cold once you're in bed; most guesthouses can provide more.
- Wear a base layer and socks to bed rather than relying only on blankets, especially in a room with no heating overnight.
- Keep a hot water bottle or filled flask if the hotel can provide hot water; it makes a real difference inside a sleeping bag or under blankets.
- Avoid alcohol before sleeping in the cold. It creates a feeling of warmth while actually increasing heat loss from the body.
Recognising hypothermia
Hypothermia is what happens when the body loses heat faster than it can produce it, and it develops gradually enough that both the person affected and people around them often miss the early signs.
Watch for:
- Persistent shivering that doesn't stop with more layers, followed in more serious cases by shivering stopping altogether, which is a warning sign rather than improvement.
- Slurred speech, confusion or poor coordination, out of proportion to how cold it actually feels.
- Unusual tiredness or a wish to just sit down and rest, which in a cold environment should not be ignored.
If you suspect hypothermia, get the person out of the wind and cold as soon as possible, remove any wet clothing, wrap them in dry layers and blankets, and give warm (not hot) drinks and food if they are alert enough to swallow safely. Warm the body's core, not the arms and legs directly, and avoid rapid rewarming such as a hot bath, which can be dangerous. Seek medical help urgently for anyone with confusion, slurred speech or drowsiness in the cold; our guide to medical facilities in the northern areas covers where the nearest hospital is likely to be.
Our guide to the seasons covers which months and places get coldest, if you're still deciding when to travel.
Frequently asked questions
How cold does it get in Hunza and Skardu in winter?
Night-time temperatures commonly fall well below freezing from December through February, with the highest valleys and Skardu typically colder than lower Hunza. Exact lows vary by year and location, so check a recent forecast before you travel rather than relying on an average.
Do hotels in the northern areas have heating in winter?
Some do, especially established mid-range and higher-end properties that stay open year-round, usually with gas heating, central heating or a wood-fired bukhari. Many smaller guesthouses close for winter, so confirm with the hotel directly before booking.
What are the first signs of hypothermia to watch for?
Persistent shivering, slurred speech, confusion, clumsiness and unusual tiredness. If shivering stops in someone who has been very cold for a while, treat it as serious rather than a sign they're recovering.
Is it safe to use a gas heater or bukhari in a closed hotel room overnight?
Only with proper ventilation. Never block air vents to trap heat, and get out into fresh air immediately if you smell gas or fumes, since unventilated combustion heaters carry a carbon monoxide risk.
What should I pack to stay warm on a winter trip north?
A proper three-layer system (base, insulating mid-layer, windproof outer), a warm hat, gloves, thick socks and a spare dry set of both, since wet extremities get cold fastest.
