The Chillianwala battle memorial is a red sandstone obelisk at the edge of Chillianwala village in Mandi Bahauddin district, about 15 km east of Mandi Bahauddin city. It marks the field hospital and burial ground of the Battle of Chillianwala, fought on 13 January 1849 between the East India Company and the Sikh army, and it holds three mass graves. There is little here to see beyond the monument, but for anyone interested in the history of Punjab it is one of the most important battlefield sites in the country.
This is a short, quiet stop rather than a day out. The guide covers what happened, what the memorial looks like, how to find it and what to expect when you arrive.
| At a glance | |
|---|---|
| Location | Chillianwala village, Mandi Bahauddin district, about 15 km east of Mandi Bahauddin |
| Battle | 13 January 1849, Second Anglo-Sikh War |
| Memorial | Obelisk erected by the British government in 1871 |
| Time needed | About 30 to 45 minutes |
| Facilities | None to count on; no published hours or fee found |
What happened at Chillianwala?
The Battle of Chillianwala was fought on 13 January 1849 during the Second Anglo-Sikh War. A British force under Sir Hugh Gough, with roughly 12,000 men and about 100 guns, met a Sikh army under Sher Singh Attariwalla, estimated at 10,000 to 20,000 men with 62 guns.
Neither side won clearly. The British lost about 600 men killed and over 1,600 wounded, a heavy toll, and the Sikh losses were far higher, estimated at between 4,000 and 8,000. Heavy rain stopped any renewal of the fighting, and the Sikhs withdrew first, which let the British claim a tactical victory. In practice it was a shock to British confidence, and Gough was criticised and later replaced by Charles Napier. The war ended weeks later at Gujrat, and the British annexed the Punjab.
If you are going on to the city, our guide to places to visit in Gujrat is worth reading, as Gujrat is where the final battle of the war was fought.
The memorial
The obelisk was erected by the British government in 1871, and the foundation was laid by Richard Southwell Bourke, the 6th Earl of Mayo, the Viceroy of India. It stands on the spot used as a field hospital on the day of the battle, and the ground around it now holds three mass graves.
The monument carries plaques in English, Gurmukhi, Urdu and Persian, and honours the dead of both armies. A cross lists the names of British soldiers and their battalions, and the compound also holds the graves of British officers. That it commemorates both sides is what makes it unusual.
How to get there
Chillianwala lies in Mandi Bahauddin district, in the Gujrat division, on the road between Kharian and Mandi Bahauddin. A 2015 Dawn report describes it as reachable from the GT Road, about 25 km from Sarai Alamgir.
From Lahore the usual approach is towards Gujrat and then Mandi Bahauddin. Navigate to Chillianwala village by map and ask locally for the monument once you are there. Our guide to Gujrat covers other stops nearby.
What condition is it in?
Accounts disagree. A 2015 report in Dawn described the site as long neglected, with cattle tied by the boundary wall and vendors outside, receiving only occasional Sikh visitors. Wikipedia's entry for the village says the government has put funds towards restoring and preserving it and that the memorial is highly respected locally.
Because those sources are years old, go with modest expectations. We could not find a published opening time or entry fee, so assume it is a small walled site and ask the caretaker or local residents if it is locked.
A respectful visit
This is a burial ground. Dress modestly, speak quietly and don't climb on the obelisk or the graves. If there are local people nearby, ask before photographing them. Take any rubbish away with you.
Is it worth the detour?
Yes, if the history matters to you or you are already travelling between Lahore and Islamabad and have an hour to spare. It suits history readers, photographers and families of Sikh heritage tracing the Anglo-Sikh wars. It does not suit anyone looking for a scenic stop or well-kept grounds with facilities, because you should not count on a café, a toilet or a ticket office.
If you want a fuller heritage day nearby, pair it with Gujrat. Our travel guide has advice on planning a road trip in Punjab.
Frequently asked questions
Where is the Chillianwala memorial?
At Chillianwala village in Mandi Bahauddin district, about 15 km east of Mandi Bahauddin city, near the Jhelum.
When was the Battle of Chillianwala?
On 13 January 1849, during the Second Anglo-Sikh War.
Who won the Battle of Chillianwala?
Neither side clearly. Both armies held their ground, both claimed victory, and the British suffered heavy losses.
Who built the Chillianwala obelisk?
The British government erected it in 1871, and the foundation stone was laid by the Earl of Mayo, the Viceroy.
Is there an entry fee or opening time?
We could not find a published fee or hours. Ask locally on arrival.
Can foreign visitors go to Chillianwala?
It is a public monument in Punjab, but check the current advice from your own government and ask locally before travelling.
