Muzaffarabad: where the Neelum meets the Jhelum

A short history

Sultan Muzaffar Khan founded the city in 1646 and built the Red Fort the same year, to hold off Mughal incursions. The Black Fort stands on the opposite bank.

The defining modern event is the earthquake of 8 October 2005, which destroyed about half the buildings in the city and killed tens of thousands across the wider region. Much of what you see now was rebuilt afterwards, with government and international funding.

Pahari is the most widely spoken language, followed by Gojri and Kashmiri.

Places worth your time

Red Fort (Chak Fort)

On the Neelum bank, from 1646, partly washed away by the river and partly still standing.

The confluence

The Neelum comes in green and the Jhelum brown, and for a stretch below the join the two run side by side without mixing.

Pir Chinasi

A shrine on a ridge about 30 kilometres east at around 2,900 metres, with a view over the whole valley system.

The bazaar

For Kashmiri shawls, honey and dried fruit before heading up the valley.

Before you go

April to October. About three hours from Islamabad, and the start of the Neelum valley road. Permits for the upper valley are arranged before you arrive.