Hunza: eight hundred years above the apricot terraces

A short history

Hunza separated from Gilgit some time around 997 CE, and the break became decisive when the Ayash family established itself in the fifteenth century. From then until 1974 it was ruled by its own line of Mirs.

Baltit Fort, above Karimabad, was built by the Mirs around eight hundred years ago and served as the seat of the state. Altit Fort sits lower down the valley and is older still. Both were restored rather than rebuilt, which matters — you are walking through the actual rooms, on the actual timber, with the smoke stains where they have always been.

The state ended on 25 September 1974, when Zulfikar Ali Bhutto dissolved the princely states of Hunza and Nagar. That is recent enough that people in Karimabad remember it, and it is worth asking about if the conversation gets there on its own.

The valley also speaks Burushaski, a language isolate — no proven relatives anywhere on earth. Wakhi and Shina are spoken here too, but Burushaski is the one linguists keep coming back for.

Places worth your time

Baltit Fort

The one on every poster, and it earns it. Go in the morning, take the tour rather than wandering, and go up to the roof.

Altit Fort and the old settlement

Older, smaller, and for our money the better visit. The restored lanes of Altit Khun below it are a working village rather than a display.

Duikar, for sunset

Above Karimabad, looking down the length of the valley. Everybody goes. Go anyway, and go early enough to get a place to sit.

Attabad Lake

On 4 January 2010 a landslide dammed the Hunza river and drowned sixteen miles of the Karakoram Highway. The lake it made is an improbable colour and the road now runs through tunnels above it. It is a disaster that turned into a destination, and locals will tell you both halves of that.

Passu Cones and the Hussaini bridge

The serrated ridge you have seen and a rope bridge that photographs as more alarming than it is. Both are up in Gojal, above the lake.

Khunjerab Pass

The Chinese border at about 4,693 metres — the highest paved frontier crossing anywhere. A long day up and back from Passu, and thin enough air that you will feel the walk from the car.

Before you go

April and May for blossom, June to September for the pass and the high valleys, October for the poplars turning gold down the whole valley. Karimabad makes the obvious base; give it three nights rather than one.